From the moment that I first stumbed onto Samantha Pleet’s designs, I have been a fan of her wonderful, incredible world and unique aesthetic that she has effortlessly created.

I was smitten by her Fall/Winter 07 presentation, complete with dandy-inspired clothes and beautiful photography. Um, hello dandy romper and vagabond vest!

What’s not to love?

Then, there was that gorgeous, dreamy film (She Comes In Colors) for the Spring/Summer 08 collection (which was filmed in her grandmother’s backyard). Another hit in my book.

photos courtesy of samanthapleet.com
So, when I realized that her most recent Autumn/Winter collection was titled Rapscallion 2008, I could barely contain my excitement.

© Tim Zaragoza
Needless to say, I was more than happy to spend a day with this talented designer and see the clothes up close while geting some insight into her design process. Located in Williamsburg, Brooklyn; Samantha’s studio is a bright, cheery space filled with fashion books, personal ephemera, lots and lots of photographs and treasured pieces of friends’ art.

Essentially, it’s a creative haven and a stimulating environment for anyone. Everywhere, you turn becomes a visual treat for the eyes. From the central, common space where each wall is decorated differently (think a bright, blue wall; a graphic white and black wallpaper on another and a chalkboard wall complete with scribblings) to her actual studio room with light streaming in and an inspiration board covering a whole wall. Tacked to it are bits and pieces of imagery, polaroids and sketches, all of which were used for the Autumn/Winter 08 collection.

For her latest collection, Samantha first found inspiration in this 1976 black-and-white mug shot of a dapper David Bowie. Which then led to a search for turn-of-the-century police mugshots and other notorious riff-raff and interesting vagabonds and rapscallions. Eventually, this idea evolved into the present collection a successful blend of modern silhouettes with playful details complete with names from a bygone era like: Mischief Romper, Treason Jacket, Riff Raff Vest, Bandit Blouse and Hellion Dress.

For the lookbook and fashion show, the models (all friends of Samantha’s) were photographed as if in a police line-up complete with a frontal shot, mug shot and profile view and a description of the crime they were booked for. What makes this collection even more special is the use and colloboration of many of her friends and family, including husband Patrick McGovern. (The two have started a men’s line which debuted this past January called Patrick Pleet).

While Samantha keeps a cabinet of curiosities in her house, she has a wooden trunk filled with childhood treasures and other bits of inspiration that she keeps on top of an archive closet in her studio. During, the day she pulled out a wonderful blue cape and an actual cap with a feather affixed to its side and perhaps the most special piece of all: the very first Samantha Pleet creation, a dress that she made and sewed with the help of her mother for a play she was in as a child. These are the kinds of things that keep Samantha inspired.

© stylealchemy.com
Samantha’s definitely come a long way from wearing her own designs into her favorite stores (including TG-170) and having people compliment and order pieces as a result. Since graduating from Pratt** and debuting with her Fall 2006 collection, Samantha has been living the dream of many young designers which is to start their own business and have their designs be recognized.

Click to view our exclusive video featuring a behind-the-scenes look into Samantha Pleet’s studio.

Special thanks to Samantha Pleet for her time and to David Hartman of avant16.com for his wonderful video skills!!

**editor’s note: in the original article it stated Parsons which is inaccurate. Samantha is a Pratt alum.
♥ the alchemist

It’s the Spring Fashion Issue of New York Magazine. Look at this editorial titled Dress Descending a Staircase with all these saturated colors.

I have a weakness for clothes that look like art. Last summer, I bought a dress from Zara simply because I felt like a walking painting. These blow that dress out of the water.

           Multicolored silk long-sleeved dress with Harlequin print, Miu Miu.

                                 Circle-print top, and skirt, Fendi.

                                         Multicolored gown, Marni.

                                    Vernis-print dress, Chloé.

                   Hand-printed silk organza dress,  Dolce & Gabbana.

                       Zac Posen cyclone gown, Bergdorf Goodman

The Zac Posen is my favorite, maybe I have a thing for the brush strokes, hand-painted element?

♥ the alchemist

Here’s a quick video on Jovovich-Hawk’s Fall 2008 collection.

♥ the alchemist

I loved, luved, looovveedd Wunderkind’s Autumn/Winter 07 collection. Upon seeing the Spring/Summer 08 collection, I realized that I just about loved this one too!

This is how to successfully layer without looking like I put on everything in my closet. I will definitely be attempting to rock the florals with colorful, ankle socks and sandals.

Good thing, that I have been collecting some thrift-store floral dresses. Originally, I was tempted to rock them 90′s style with sturdy combat boots and a cute leather jacket but I think I will also be flowy and flirty. Or I might just combine the whole damn thing and come up with a look all my own. Whatever the outcome, it will be fun to do some ‘xperimenting!

Will keep all posted in a future Wardrobe Chronicle. 

What do you think? What are you excited about wearing this spring?

 ♥ the alchemist

I loved the layering of Stella Nova’s Autumn/Winter 07 collection. For Spring, there are cute, swingy jackets that can be layered over camisoles and light shirts. Those huge, elaborate headbands are really a statement piece.

Autumn/Winter 07

Some images from Sping/Summer 08

♥ the alchemist

Last year, I wrote about Yuki Arata’s Furnishing Fall 07 collection which had great silhouettes and colors. Her Spring collection is bright and really feminine. There are a few separate pieces that I like but I personally feel that Fall was stronger.

Here are the Spring images.

♥ the alchemist

There’s something about this picture from Guðrun & Guðrun’s A/W 2007 collection that I am drawn to. It’s not a new look or completely innovative. It’s just that dress looks so unbelievably soft that I wish I could reach out and feel it. Add to that the slick, toughness of the latex leggings and it becomes all the more interesting because of the contrasts.

Also, Guðrun & Guðrun use Farorese yarn which is sustainable and organic for their collection.

Guðrun & Guðrun is owned by two Faroese women and the creative
process of design is very closely linked to the isolation of the place.
“It’s good to come to Europe for input and inspiration, but it’s crucial
to come back home to the silence and not be disturbed by the hectic
life of fashion” the designer concludes.The Faroe Islands are 18 tiny islands situated in the North Atlantic, between Iceland and Norway. Only 45.000 people live on the islands.
Still it’s a nation of it’s own with own culture and own language.
So tiny and still the frames of the myriad of life.I love this part of their philosophy:The handmade production is jointly produced by Faroese and Jordanian women. We know every one of the knitters by name and our ambition is to always be proud and happy when looking them into their eyes.♥ the alchemist

Los Angeles based designer Andrea Styranka’s Fall 07 collection has a romantic, urban vibe that I am drawn to. From the tousled Gibson Girl hair to the styling, these images are inspiring.

(forgive my LOL speak, this never happens. I don’t know what came over me)

Actually, yes I do, I covet that hat and someone’s been spending too much time on the interweb!

Anyway, let’s get back to business: here is the proper image.

Isn’t the setting and styling dreamy?

Frida!

Happy Monday, lovelies!

♥ the alchemist

First, I have to rave over these beautiful images from design house commuun’s A/W 2007 collection.

Look at those colors!

Look at those shapes!

Little pieces of art. It feels like an experiment in photo lab work and color. The blues are my favorite.

Everything about this image is wonderful! I love the draping of this dress.

Designers Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate debuted in 2005 at the Paris ready-to-wear shows with their S/S 2006 collection. Commuun’s basic philosophy:

“The core idea of all collections is drawn from the structural aspect of nature,
with its balance and tensions. Commuun’s work aims at reconstructing these
features through simple but strong shapes and fine detailing. This fundamental
approach is also reflected in the exclusive use of natural and organic fabrics for
the collection. Before each collection, a detailed research is undertaken in order
to determine the most adequate fabrics to work with. Once carefully chosen,
the materials are further refined through the use of the traditional French pattern
cutting technique to create clothes of long-lasting quality, balance and functionality.
Commuun’s garments are best-known for their simple and well-tailored patterns
reinforced by futuristic details.” 

♥ the alchemist

If you’re currently drawn to moody looks and an all black color palette, then the latest collection from Chronicles of Never is right up your alley. Personally, I have always wanted to stand in the middle of a forest with a billowing flag so imagine my delight upon seeing these images. Seriously, I really like the vibe from designer Gareth Moody. (how ironic)  Chronicles of Never features clothing, shoes and jewelry for both men and women.

Also, in a perfect nod to my slight macabre sensibility, I am loving this skull necklace draped with other chains. I mean you can have a cross and skull-bones printed on your scarf, etc but this feels like an acutal outsider-art piece around your neck.

♥ the alchemist